Scotland Without a Car: The West Coast
As an American living in Scotland, I have a laundry list of differences versus similarities. For one thing, I can’t do my hair in the bathroom. Instead, I have to plug in the blow dryer in a bedroom or elsewhere, seeing as no bathrooms have outlets except for the rare shaver sockets. Aside from my quarrels about the disruption in my regular beauty routine, something grander that I have had to adjust to is life without a car.
Now, it’s not necessarily that no one has cars or that the roads are packed dirt (although many may still be cobblestones depending on the city you’re in). Like living in most major cities, the need for a car is not as prevalent. Edinburgh and Glasgow's bus and tram systems are relatively reliable and easy to navigate, so why would I need a car?
Well, these cities are just small pieces that make up the quilted puzzle of Scotland.
So, if you are city-bound or coming as a tourist, how do you get to the rest of the country? Renting cars can be expensive, and if you, like me, are not accustomed to driving on the left side of the road, then the winding, thin roads of the highlands can be quite daunting. And once you get to these more remote villages, you will not likely find many taxis and no nearby Uber drivers.
However, don’t fret, all you non-driving travellers! Thanks to a robust train system, several Citylink buses, and an intensive week of ‘fieldwork’, I am happy to report that it is possible to take Scotland on foot. And we’re going to show you how. Join us on a week-long trip from Edinburgh to the Scottish West Coast without a car.
This article will provide a full overview of my trip, including how to reach destinations and their activities. For a more detailed recap, please refer to the corresponding location-specific articles, which will be tagged accordingly.
Oban: Day 1 & 2
Walkability Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Day 1: See you later, Edinburgh!
Itinerary:
11:00 AM - Train from Edinburgh to Glasgow
12:20 PM - Train from Glasgow to Oban
15:40 PM - Arrive in Oban
16:00 PM - Check-in at Oban Bay Hotel
16:40 PM - Walk to see DunOllie Castle
17:00 PM - Realise Dunollie Castle is closed, but there is a nice walking path into town
17:30 PM - Walk to McCaig’s Tower from town and enjoy the scenery
18:15 PM - Return to town and read by the water before returning to freshen up for Dinner.
20:00 PM - Dinner at the grill room, followed by an evening walk along the bay as the waves roll in.
Starting from Edinburgh Waverly Train Station, I did have to change trains once at Glasgow Queen Street, which can be the case when your destination is a less frequented town or village not on heavily used routes. Ticket prices vary depending on a few things, but these ran for £55.
I use the ScotRail App on my phone to purchase tickets and plan my trips. This way, the ticket is preloaded onto my phone, so I won't have to worry about printers. If you prefer, you can pick tickets up at the station upon arrival, but make sure you plan an extra 10 minutes into your time so there's no chance of a missed train while you're trying to get your tickets sorted.
Arriving in Oban: When you arrive in Oban, you will pull into the train station directly adjacent to the ferry terminal (this is important for later, so remember that). Exiting the station, you walk onto the bayside, where restaurants, bars, ice cream shops and tourist shops centre the town.
A path winds around the curve of the bay, leading you directly to the Oban Bay Hotel. With a big pack and an additional smaller day pack, the walk took me approximately 15 minutes from the station to the hotel, completely on a sidewalk with stunning views.
Walk to Dunollie Castle: Near the entrance to the castle grounds, there is a trail through the Dunollie forest where you can walk either on a paved path or in the forest path to get back into the town centre. Completely shaded and with peaking access through the tree line to the water beyond, it was just as lovely as I could have hoped.
Although the castle was closed to visitors for the day by the time I arrived, I could see its impending status on the cliff side looking over the town, ensuring I would not forget about its presence and that I would return before the next stop on my trip.
Walk to McCaig Tower: The walk to McCaigs Tower took longer than I expected, as I had to stop and catch my breath a few times on the steep ascent, but it was worth it for the view across the bay through the lens of a stunning stone structure. The walk is completely paved; although I did walk past the street, I was meant to turn about three times because of an Apple Maps error, so be sure to use Google Maps or WalkHighlands to find the entrance.
McCaig’s Tower is an incredible piece of architecture. The grounds have a few benches to lounge and a spot to step onto the tower's edge, facing the bay where you can see the ferries coming in and out of port.
Reading by the Bay: On the walk back from McCaigs Tower, I was not quite ready to get cleaned up for dinner, and the sun was shining just perfectly on the water beside my walk back, so I took a seat at one of the many benches lining the coastline and read few pages of a novel the Spa Manager at Oban Bay was kind enough to let me borrow (a book is a solo travellers best friend). I returned to the seaside after dinner for one more quick walk by the water to watch the sun setting, creating a beautiful scene of oranges and pinks across the sky and water.
Day 2: A Dram in the Seafood Capital of Scotland
Itinerary:
8:00 AM - Breakfast in The Grill Room
10:45 AM - Explore Dunollie Castle and grounds (since it's open now)
12:30 PM - Tasting tour at Oban Bay Distillery
2:45 PM - Stop for ice cream to fuel next walk
3:00 PM - Walk to Pulpit Hill Viewpoint
7:00 PM - Eat dinner in the Oban Bay Hotel bar
Waking up early always feels easier when you wake up to a body of water. Even with the fog rolling through, the mornings in Oban are calm. Even in the light fog, a nice walk along the water can fuel you with optimism for the day ahead.
Dunollie Castle (for real this time): The walk to Dunollie Castle is mostly completed via a paved footpath. Of course, you can always opt for the alternative wooded path that leads from town as well, which is only a few minutes longer but, depending on the weather can be equally muddy. If you opt for the paved path, remember that you will briefly walk along the road and a hard shoulder at one point. Thankfully, the locals are aware of this and take care near this area of the road, and I never felt in danger at any point.
The castle has a £10 entry fee, which gives you access to the surrounding gardens, castle ruins, and museum. The museum has some incredible pieces for those interested in learning more about the castle's history, which I recommend doing before seeing the ruins to immerse yourself fully in the past.
Oban Distillery Tour: I left Dunollie Castle at 11:45 AM and arrived a perfect 20 minutes before my 12:30 PM tour at Oban Distillery. Located in the direct centre of town, Oban Distillery is one of the oldest buildings in town. They have been distilling whisky since 1794, only 18 years after the USA declared independence.
The was led by a young Oban local who grew up near the distillery. She was very insightful and had answers for nearly every question thrown her way. We started by learning some history about the original building and how whisky is made, with three ingredients: Barley, yeast, and water. We were able to walk through each part of the making process and get a view of what the whiskey looks like in each stage.
Oban Distillery is quite busy, so be sure to book well in advance to ensure you can get in at your preferred time.
Pulpit Hill Viewpoint: I headed to Oban's most frequented viewpoint. A marked path leads uphill to Pulpit Hill Viewpoint, which is another quite steep walk but worth it.
From this perspective, you can see the Isle of Kererra and beyond. Interestingly enough, the toposcope (pictured below—a graphic display erected at viewing points on high places that indicates the direction and distance of notable landscape features that can be seen from that point) directs viewers to some other locations I will be in on this journey. You can see Inveraray, Dunollie Castle, and Glencoe all etched into the stone, along with many other points of interest.
Quick Summary:
Overall, Oban was incredible. There was more than enough in the nearby area to keep me entertained for the two days I was there. All of these were easily accessible by foot, and had I gone with a car, most also had parking. The town itself and the subsequent hotel were equally accessible. The only reason I did not give Oban 5 out of 4 stars in walkability is because it is just such a hilly area; it could be difficult for those who struggle with stairs, seeing as bus stops are limited and the hills are crushing. Also, there were points where I had to walk along streets and forego any pathways.
I recommend that anyone with time to visit Oban, especially in the summer, with or without a car.
Isle of Mull: Day 3 & 4
Walkability Rating:⭐⭐⭐
Day 3: A Day on the Hebridean Sea
Itinerary:
7:00 AM Breakfast and check-out of hotel
8:05 AM - Ferry from Oban to Craignure on the Isle of Mull
9:35 AM - Arrive in Craignure
11:45 AM - Set sail from Ulva Port with Turus Mara to explore the Treshnish Isles and Staffa
6:00 PM - Return from tour and head back to Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa
7:30 PM - Dinner at Oran na Mara and finish the day watching the waves come in
In this case, getting to Mull was probably easier without the car. There are no bridges to the island; instead, it can only be accessed by private boats, ferries and other modes of water transport. This is a relatively quick trip, only taking around an hour, depending on weather and scheduling. While getting on and off the island in a car is the same process, slots can fill up quicker, especially when porting from Oban. The leading ferry company on the West Coast is Caledonian MacBrayne, locally known as CalMac.
The ferry port in Oban is directly beside the train station where I came in, so finding the boats was no problem. As a foot passenger, you will have your ticket scanned and then be directed to sit in the gallery, or you can enjoy the sea air from the deck.
Book tickets in advance and be at the terminal on time, whether on foot or by vehicle. The last call for foot passengers is 10 minutes before sailing times and 20 minutes before sailing times for vehicle passengers. Return tickets for foot passengers are £8.80.
From one ferry port to another: While getting to the island without a car might be easier, it’s not as easy to get around once you're there without one.
Thankfully, Turus Mara is prepared for the odd request from a foot passenger now and again for transport. Their boat tours use Ulva Ferry Port, a good 20 miles from where the ferry from Oban had dropped me off. Their shuttle service has limited spaces and times, so if you need assistance getting to the dock, let their team know in advance!
A day with Turus Mara: Arriving at the quaint ferry port of Ulva, the air is slightly cooler with a hint of salt and sea. There’s not much here—a small dock allowed just a few boats to rest and a toilet house.
Gaelic for ‘Journey by Sea’, Turus Mara is a family-run boat tour operation that has been running since 1973. From its origins in small craft boats to the upgraded larger boats used today, you have more options depending on the time of year and availability. We opted for a full-day excursion, departing from the Ulva ferry port at 11:40 AM and were scheduled to return near 6:00 PM. Taking to the water, the day was set to explore the Isle of Staffa and the Treshnish Isles beyond. The highlight? The hundreds of Puffins!
The vessel would leave us to explore the individual islands for some time before coming to collect and bring its passengers back to the Mull coast. We were so full of new knowledge and excitement about the wildlife we had seen that I couldn’t help but crave more. I spent the entire trip back searching the royal blue water for any sign of other sea life. I was rewarded twice with grey seals, plus plenty of birds on their way to the sanctuary island we had just left. This tour is highly recommended. We were left wowed by the crew and adventure.
To read more about this experience, see the corresponding detailed blog.
And one more ferry port: The ride back to the Craignure Ferry Port was quieter than the ride there, full of memories to filter through and longing to rehash the day over a warm meal. The fulfilment in my heart after the adventure reignited my passion for the sea, reminding me of my time living by the sea. Everyone was not tired because of exhaustion or sadness but quiet in peace.
I requested a shuttle pick-up to take me from the port to the Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa. The hotel has a special shuttle available for requests. Make sure to call in advance and book the times you might need to bring you to your island retreat.
Now, this is luxury livin’: After a quick ride in the shuttle back to the hotel, I could finally check into my room onto a stunning deck with ocean views and my own personal hot tub! Any hint of tiredness left my body as I saw the incredible set-up before me. Complimentary treats, a bottle of wine and steam barely escaping under the closed lid of the hot tub. I wish I had a video of my face walking in because my jaw was dropped. It was just what I needed after a day on the Hebridean Seas.
Day 4: The Lighthouse
Itinerary:
8:30 AM - Breakfast and morning admin
11:00 AM - Bus to Tobermory
12:05 PM - Arrive in Tobermory
12:15 PM - Hike to Tobermory Lighthouse & War Memorial
2:00 PM - Lunch @ The Gallery
3:50 PM - Bus back to Isle of Mull Hotel and Spa
5:35 PM - Arrive back at Hotel
8:00 PM - Dinner at Oran na Mara
9:00 PM - Nighttime walk & Hot Tub Soak
The Bus to Tobermory: Luckily for me and all the other car-less travellers on the island, a bus system runs around the island. With varying timetables, most buses run from 6 AM to 7 or 8 PM, depending on the bus routes and delays.
The bus I was to take to Tobermory (West Coast Motors route 95) was scheduled at 11:09 AM, and with it being directly outside the hotel, there was no need to rush the morning. Day passes from West Coast Motors are £18, and you can travel on the ticket as many buses as you need from 24 hours after activation. I’m happy to report that the scheduled bus was on time and arrived in Tobermory at 11:53 AM, earlier than projected! According to their website, taking this journey saved 5904g of CO2 compared to driving - the same as keeping a lightbulb on for 1,664 hours.
Walking from town, you will pass the Mull Museum. I highly suggest popping in to take a look, as it is a free exhibition and gives some context to what life was like on the island years ago. The museum works on donations and volunteers, so it is nice to do your part and offer a token of gratitude to the staff. There are plenty of places to stop along the way, but once you get onto the edge of the main street, you will see arrows pointing to the lighthouse.
To the Lighthouse:
The trail also goes right past a steep staircase leading to the war memorial, which honours the soldiers from Tobermory who lost their lives in World War I. There are some benches here, and depending on the time of year and the tree density, you can see across the bay. It is a lovely spot for reflection.
The walk to the lighthouse takes 30-45 minutes and gradually increases altitude. The entire path offers glimpses of the sea beyond, creating an interesting trail reminiscent of the American North West. You can also take a separate path to see the lighthouse from above. I walked directly to see the lighthouse itself, however. The 19-metre, white-painted tower was established in 1857, manually looked after by keepers living just a stone's throw away until 1960, when the lighthouse was automated. Rubha Nan Gall, meaning ‘strangers point’ in Gaelic, now mainly relies on solar power to keep the lighthouse active.
Lunch in a Church: After a calming walk back through town, I had time to sit down for lunch. I found myself at The Gallery, a restored church turned art gallery and restaurant. They have a selection of art produced by local artists along with some other items, such as images of puffins and other characters you can find around Mull.
It was a good place for me to sit down, get some warm grub, and catch up on some documentation about the past few days. With the large stained glass window above me and a giant cappuccino to fuel me, writing was suddenly much easier in this space. Afterwards, I took another nice walk along the shore, taking in the surroundings of the coast before hopping back onto the bus and returning towards Craignure Ferry Port. Lucky for me, if you ask politely, sometimes the bus drivers will let you hop off early, meaning I didn’t have to walk the extra ten minutes back from the stop after a long day of hiking.
Quick Overview:
Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by the ease with which I was able to get around the island without a car. From my experience on the other islands, such as the Isle of Skye, I thought a car would be crucial to doing anything. It would have been ideal to spend more time here on Mull, seeing as the added buses and shuttles take a large chunk of time out of the day. I would say that most of the side of the island I was on was not very walkable per se, though there is a sidewalk or footpath to the Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa to and from the ferry port. If you are confident walking along streets, you can walk, but I would suggest taking the bus where you can in regard to saving time and safety. There is so much left to do on Mull that I would love to do, but I was not able to fit into this trip, so I am looking forward to returning again.
Inveraray: Day 5 & 6
Walkability Rating:⭐⭐⭐
Day 5: A Royal Day in Inveraray
Itinerary:
8:45 AM: Ferry from Craignure in Mull to Oban
9:35 AM: Arrive Back in Oban
11:00 AM: Bus from Oban to
12:30 PM: Arrive in Inveraray
1:00 PM: Afternoon Tea
2:30 PM: Tour of Inveraray Castle
6:00 PM: Dinner
Boats and Buses: To get to the next stop, the first step of the journey was to retrace my steps, meaning I had to get the ferry back to Oban. Well, walking to the ferry port is technically the first step. From Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa, it is only a 10-minute walk, so it wasn’t much of a journey, but taking the fairy trail along the bay rather than the pavement by the road made it more interesting.
I joined my friends on the CalMac Ferry for the second time this week. By booking tickets ahead of time, I was ensured a spot at the time of booking, and the accompanying QR code made it easy to show the ticket person and head directly aboard.
Delays, cancellations, and diversions are inevitable in public transport. Sadly, an accident on the roadways caused a road closure that allowed for a proper investigation. No buses would be getting in or out of Oban anytime soon—except for one.
A bus driver who had made it through before the barricade found a group of passengers standing around a police officer, trying to figure out what to do. He graciously rounded up those of us headed that way with prebought tickets (another good reason to book tickets in advance) onto the only available bus headed towards Glasgow that day, and we were off. The alternative route took some extra time but was nothing too drastic. Before I knew it, I was waving goodbye to Oban and hello to Inveraray.
An Afternoon for Royalty: The short delay in timings meant I had to push back my scheduled afternoon tea by 30 minutes, but I was just grateful to get to my next location. I was lucky enough to have a coworker join me for this part of my trip, and we were treated like royalty!
After a lavish tea, we went down the road to continue the decadence by spending the day at Inveraray Castle. The surrounding grounds are full of life, where you can see grazing cattle and squirrels scampering through thick woodlands with stunning views of the decorative Dun na Cuaiche.
Inside, the castle is adorned with ornate decor, from an outstanding organisation of weapons to delicate paintings and ornamental ceilings. The rooms that are visible to the public show a unique glimpse into the world of the Duke of Argyll and the historical Clan Campbell. The Duke describes the castle as ‘first and foremost, a family home,’ the family still is in residence, closing public access during the winter holiday season. Looking around at the layers of history, every room has an air of elegance, from the bedrooms to dining spaces, and even the simple kitchen boasts an impressive area.
Easy Evenings: After leaving the castle, the original plan was to walk to Dun na Cuaiche, which is about a 3-mile round-trip hike. However, the heavy rain meant two things. One, the views would be abysmal at best, and two, the mud could make the steep incline slippery and dangerous. It could wait until the next day.
This is a type of weather the Scottish call ‘Dreich’, meaning ‘dreary and bleak’. It’s nothing a hearty dinner and a glass of wine can’t fix. We enjoyed a calm dinner and then headed to the room nicknamed ‘The War Room’. Glasses of wine in hand, we enjoyed a relaxing game of Scrabble.
Day 6: Day spent in Inveraray Jail…
Itinerary:
9:00 AM: Breakfast & Meetings
11:00 AM: Inveraray Bell Tower
11:30 AM: Inveraray Jail
1:30 PM: Walk to Dun Na Cuaiche
4:14 PM: Return to Hotel
6:30 PM: Dinner
The Inveraray Bell Tower: For the most part, the weather stayed nice and sunny, with a few scattered showers, but nothing compared to the day before. So, I took the opportunity to go into town to explore the quaint shops of Inverarary before continuing with my schedule.
The Bell Tower is open from Monday - Friday, and for £7, visitors can see an exhibition where you can learn more about the tower's history and its bells. Following the spiral staircase up 176 steps will reward you with stunning panoramic views of Inveraray. This was not on my original itinerary, but as it was only a 10-minute walk from the hotel and directly across from my next excursion for the day, The Inveraray Jail, there was no reason to miss it.
A Day in Jail: No longer an active Jail, Inveraray Jail is now a museum dedicated to educating visitors about Scotland's crime and punishment history. Unfortunately, the jail recently opened an escape room, which I didn’t plan into my itinerary, but I am excited to try it out next time.
The jail features knowledgeable employees dressed in historical attire, clay models, interactive exhibits, and a free audio tour with every ticket purchase (tickets are £15.50). The front of the building is deceptive, not doing justice to the sheer size of the jail. I spent almost two hours here, reading and listening to stories of past inmates and the history of Scottish law practice of the day.
It was an incredible experience and is a well-done gem of a museum tucked away in Inveraray.
The Climb: I headed back towards the fairytale Inveraray Castle. Instead of turning towards the castle and ticketing box, I turned left and crossed the stone bridge leading to the forest walk. Dun Na Cuaiche is visible from most of the town, creating a beautiful sight wedged on the side of the mountain face rather than its peak so that it is silhouetted by the sky. Interestingly, this structure was not designed for purpose but for pure aesthetic value.
At the start of the walk, there are two main paths, one indicated by a red arrow and the other a blue. The red arrow directs a more gradual walk to Sweetie Seat - I have done this walk in the past, and it was low difficulty.
The walk to Dun Na Cuaiche is a 3-mile loop, but there are sections where the incline is fierce, so it definitely got my heart rate up. The views throughout the walk are beautiful, over the Scottish countryside and through the lush green trees. Arriving at the reddish tower, I sat overlooking Loch Fyne for miles and ate my sandwich. The town and castle below looked antique, with the stark white buildings lining Front Street.
Quick Overview:
Even with the rain and delay, I enjoyed my time at Inveraray just the same. The town itself is very walkable, with clean pavement and plenty to keep a foot passenger busy. Stacked with historical relevance, including the Castle, Jail and Bell Tower, you will surely have an educational experience. Should Scottish history not be what you’re after, there are still plenty of walks around to keep you busy, whether you are interested in reaching higher peaks, wild swimming, or long walks along the loch. However, there is plenty to do surrounding Inveraray that was not easily accessible to me without access to a car or just would have taken too much time to get to for the two days I was there. The only way in and out of the small town without using a car is by bus, as there are no local train stations.
Day 7: That’s a Wrap
Itinerary:
11:00 AM: Bus from Inveraray to Glasgow
12:55 AM: Change Bus from Glasgow to Edinburgh
2:45 PM: Arrive back in Edinburgh
It’s always bittersweet coming home from any trip, but my feet were tired by this time, and my heart was full. It was time to return to Edinburgh, back to the real world. Well, as real as the romantic capital city of Scotland is.
The bus was a smooth ride from start to finish, hoping on in the Inveraray town centre and off at Buchanan Bus Station in Glasgow, and immediately back on another heading for Edinburgh Bus Station. Having the City Links App downloaded on my phone made for an easy trip, and as the bus from Inveraray arrived slightly early, I could grab the next bus back to Edinburgh rather than wait for the following one 30 minutes later.
Final Thoughts & Recommendations
So, is it possible to travel around the West Coast of Scotland without a car? Absolutely. I was pleasantly surprised with how smoothly this trip went from start to finish. I expected to catch a lot more delays and have a lot more issues with the feasibility of walking to where I needed to. With the help of modern technology, booking tickets for ferries, trains, and buses is at your fingertips. For all travel, booking tickets in advance is a must. Especially in summer, when tourism is at its peak, and tickets can become scarce, plan in advance and have a backup plan just in case of delays or cancellations.
Important Travel Apps to Download:
- CalMac Ferries Updates: Stay updated on any delays, cancellations, or service changes
- CityLink Buses: Book tickets and get updates in real-time
- ScotRail: Plan your journey and purchase tickets
- WestCoast Motors: Search timetables, purchase tickets, and select your favourite recurring routes to stay updated.
So, after a week of lugging around two backpacks and walking over 30 miles, would I recommend travelling Scotland without a car?
Honestly, it depends. It is worth the saved coin if you are looking for the most cost-effective way of doing things. In total, I spent under £125 on travel. I recommend spending more time in each location to make the most of it. As for a £55 train ticket from Edinburgh to Oban, I wish I had budgeted more time in the area to make the additional journey to Dunstafgna Castle and on a boat tour to see the Seal Colony. Without a car, getting from location to location takes more time, and even when you don’t notice, it starts eating into your adventure time, so you should stay longer in each place to get the full experience!
I personally enjoy solo travelling and not having to worry about the hustle of finding parking everywhere I go, but it’s not for everyone. I would recommend trying it at least once. It can boost your confidence and opens an entire world of travel opportunities. Make sure to do your research ahead of time and plan for delays or cancellations. As weather can be just as unpredictable as public transport, have the flexibility of rainy day plans. Avoid having a too rigid schedule, and give yourself the luxury of options. This made my trip feel much more relaxed, giving me a better overall experience.
