Scotland Without a Car: Part 1 - Oban
I was sent on a mission: to figure out not only how to get from Edinburgh to the west coast of Scotland without a car but also whether it is feasible to travel both enjoyably and safely. As part of a larger piece, here is my experience of the first two days of my trip. This article includes details on how to get from Edinburgh to Oban and what there is to do in the area.
You can see the full overview of my week-long expedition here.
Day 1: See you later, Edinburgh!
Itinerary:
11:00 AM - Train from Edinburgh to Glasgow
12:20 PM - Train from Glasgow to Oban
15:40 PM - Arrive in Oban
16:00 PM - Check-in at Oban Bay Hotel
16:40 PM - Walk to see DunOllie Castle
17:00 PM - Realise Dunollie Castle is closed, but there is a nice walking path into town
17:30 PM - Walk to McCaig’s Tower from town and enjoy the scenery
18:15 PM - Return to town and read by the water before returning to freshen up for Dinner.
20:00 PM - Dinner at the grill room, followed by an evening walk along the bay as the waves roll in.
Overview:
Taking the Train: The luxury of living in the capital of Scotland is being able to reach the majority of Scotland relatively easily. Starting from Edinburgh Waverly Train Station, I did have to change trains once at Glasgow Queen Street, which can be the case when your destination is less frequented towns and villages not on heavily used routes. Ticket prices vary depending on a few things, but these ran for £55. There were cheaper options, but when a girl has a schedule, she sticks to it, so instead of the £28 tickets at 5 PM, I chose to leave at 11 AM.
I use the ScotRail App on my phone to purchase tickets and plan my trips. This way, the ticket is preloaded onto my phone, so I won't have to worry about printers. If you prefer, you can pick tickets up at the station upon arrival, but make sure you plan an extra 10 minutes into your time so there's no chance of a missed train while you're trying to get your tickets sorted.
The train ride from Glasgow takes almost 3.5 hours, so I recommend bringing a book or a pair of headphones. The ride has gorgeous views, passing through the Scottish countryside, coastline, and past significant landmarks, such as the banks of Loch Lomond, Scotland's largest loch and the namesake of my favourite Scottish folk song.
Arriving in Oban: When you arrive in Oban, you will pull into the train station directly adjacent to the ferry terminal (this is important for later, so remember that). Exiting the station, you walk directly onto the bay, where the town is centred with restaurants, bars, ice cream shops and tourist shops. To explore the town, you can follow this route by WalkHighlands.
A path winds around the curve of the bay, leading you directly to the Oban Bay Hotel. With a big pack and an additional smaller day pack, the walk from the station to the hotel took me approximately 15 minutes, entirely on a sidewalk with stunning views. I was fortunate to have excellent weather that day, with no rain and little cloud coverage. It was a mild temperature of 17C (or 63F) but felt much warmer because of the sun reflecting off the water paired with a lot of walking.
I checked into my room and got my stuff settled, just packing my day bag with the essentials before getting along with my excursions.
Walk to Dunollie Castle: I’ve already learned from this experience the importance of being flexible. My original plan had been to see Dunollie Castle, experience it, and then continue north to Dunstaffnage Castle; combined, this would have been about a 3.5-hour walk. Which also meant I would return at 8 o’clock or later. The late dinner I planned for with plenty of snacks to tide me over. I did not plan for Dunollie Castle to close at 4 PM.
Should I have checked this first? Absolutely. I had forgotten to consider the later train ride I had opted for, so my schedule was off by a few hours. What it did show me is that the walk I had planned to reach Dunstaffnage was unrealistic. It would have taken place entirely on the side of a coastal roadway with a hard shoulder.
Thankfully, just near the entrance to the castle grounds, there runs a trail through the Dunollie forest where you can walk either on a paved path or in the forest path to get back into the town centre. Completely shaded and with peaking access through the tree line to the water beyond, it was just as lovely as I could have hoped.
Walk to McCaig Tower: One thing you might not know about Oban - it is a steep little town. Meaning the walk to McCaig's Tower took a tad longer than I expected, as I had to stop and catch my breath a few times on the steep ascent, but it was worth it for the view across the bay through the lens of a stunning stone structure. The walk itself is not challenging and is completely paved. Although I did walk past the street, I was meant to turn about three times because of an Apple Maps error, so make sure to use Google or WalkHighlands to find the entrance.
McCaig’s Tower is an incredible piece of architecture. By the time I got there, much of the crowd had left for their dinner, which was quiet and calm. I think the next time in Oban I will spend more time there, perhaps with a book or picnic. The grounds have a few benches to lounge and a spot to step onto the tower's edge, facing the bay where you can see the ferries coming in and out of port.
Reading by the Bay: On the walk back from McCaigs Tower, I was not quite ready to get cleaned up for dinner. The sun was shining just perfectly on the water beside my walk back, so I took a seat at one of the many benches lining the coastline and read a few pages of the novel the Spa Manager at Oban Bay let me borrow (a book is a solo travellers best friend). The sound of the tide pushing and pulling on the rocks below made me glad to see others have the same idea, either reading, sitting with a loved one or simply enjoying the beautiful weather.
Dinner at the Grill Room: Oban is considered the seafood capital of Scotland, which is unfortunate for me because I am allergic to fish and shellfish. That said, the Grill Room was very understanding and accommodated me appropriately. I recommend starting with the goats' cheese!
After dinner, I went outside for one more quick walk by the water to watch the sun setting, which created a beautiful scene of oranges and pinks across the sky and water. A major perk of staying at a hotel that directly sits on the bay was being able to walk across the street and enjoy views like this or watch the colours from behind the sea-facing windows in the lounge. The calming sounds of the water lapping lazily on the shore created a peaceful ending to a full day by the shore.
Day 2: A Dram in the Seafood Capital of Scotland
Itinerary:
8:00 AM - Breakfast in The Grill Room
10:45 AM - Explore Dunollie Castle and its grounds (since it's open now)
12:30 PM - Tasting tour at Oban Bay Distillery
2:45 PM - Stop for ice cream to fuel next walk
3:00 PM - Walk to Pulpit Hill Viewpoint
7:00 PM - Eat dinner in the Oban Bay Hotel bar
Detailed Itinerary:
The First Morning: Waking up early always feels easier when you wake up to a body of water. With the fog rolling through, the mornings in Oban are calm. A nice walk along the water, even in the light fog, can fuel you for the day ahead with optimism. Had I been on a proper holiday, I would have enjoyed just sitting, reading, and enjoying the sights and smells of the salty sea air for longer.
But I wasn’t on holiday and had to take a few meetings after indulging in a full Scottish breakfast complete with a delicious slice of haggis and tattie scone.
Dunollie Castle (for real this time): After ensuring all was squared away on the office side of things, it was time to give Dunollie Castle another go. There was limited time before my next appointment at 12:30, and the nearby attraction allowed me to fill this gap in my diary.
The walk to Dunollie Castle is mostly completed via a paved footpath. Of course, you can always opt for the alternative wooded path that leads from town as well, which is only a few minutes longer but depending on the weather can be equally muddy. If you opt for the paved path, remember that you will be walking along the road and a hard shoulder for a brief few minutes. Thankfully, the locals are aware of this and take care near this area of the road, and I never felt in danger at any point.
The castle has a £10 entry fee, which gives you access to the surrounding gardens, castle ruins, and museum. The museum has some incredible pieces for those interested in learning more about the castle's history, which I recommend doing before seeing the ruins to immerse yourself fully in the past.
The castle ruins are just that. A view across the bay gives an exciting insight into the past. The second floor has been preserved so you can access it with a roped handle to keep yourself steady, but be warned that the stairs are slippery and uneven. No lights are installed; besides guardrails, most of the ruins have not been disturbed.
With a glance at the time, I realised I had, in fact, been quite engrossed with the castle, transported through time, back to the 12th century, when the MacDougalls were the Lords of Lorne. So engrossed in my experience that I had not realised the time. It was time to move on because even the 12th-century lords couldn’t keep me from the next thing on my itinerary.
Oban Distillery Tour: I left Dunollie Castle at 11:45 AM and arrived a perfect 20 minutes before my 12:30 PM tour at Oban Distillery. Located in the direct centre of town, Oban Distillery is one of the oldest buildings in town. They have been distilling whisky since 1794, only 18 years after the USA declared independence.
The was led by a young, but of course, legal drinking age, Oban local who grew up near the distillery. She was very insightful and had answers for nearly every question thrown her way. We started by learning some history about the original building and how whisky is made, with three ingredients: Barley, yeast, and water. We were able to walk through each part of the making process and get a view of what the whiskey looks like in each stage.
At three stops along the tour, we were offered a small dram to taste while learning about the process. Even for someone who is not the biggest whisky fan, the experience made the drink that much sweeter. The explanations of each maturation stage were so thorough that it was easier for me to pick up on the discussed flavours. Oban whisky is known for its smoky, citrusy flavours with hints of sea salt and honey. The light amber colouring makes for a beautiful dram, and if you experience the tour, you might be lucky enough to bring a special Oban branded dram glass home with you.
I have been to whisky tastings before, but nothing was quite as detailed as this experience. It was incredible to hear the history and see the process in person, even as one of the smallest distilleries in Scotland. It was heartwarming to know that even now, the business is running generationally, with multiple family members passing on tips and tricks for distillation and business. You can even get special bottles named after these past whisky experts.
Oban Distillery is quite busy, so book in advance to ensure you can get in at your preferred time.
You have a selection of choices wrapped around the bay for a range of sweet treats, including a chocolate shop. Many of the shops are what you expect. Oban souvenir shops are tucked in between local businesses and signs boasting boat or guided tours. I opted for the most brightly coloured of the shops, The Pokey Hat. The bright pink exterior and novel characters in the window called me inside, where I opted for a raspberry ripple cone. Not my normal order (I’m partial to chocolates and caramels), but it felt right to enjoy the fresh flavour looking out across the sea, knowing I was soon going to be not relaxed at all and instead climbing a steep hill.
While this small interaction probably didn’t need its own section, I personally find ice cream very important.
Pulpit Hill Viewpoint: After being properly fueled by straight sugar, I headed to Oban's most frequented viewpoint. There’s a marked path which leads uphill to Pulpits Hill Viewpoint. It’s not difficult necessarily. It does have multiple markers, and there are sidewalks or marked paths with handrails leading almost the entire way there. It is also, however, quite steep. But worth it.
From this perspective, you can see the Isle of Kererra and beyond. Interestingly enough, the toposcope (pictured above—a graphic display erected at viewing points on high places that indicates the direction and distance of notable landscape features that can be seen from that point) directs viewers to some other locations I will be in on this journey. You can see Inveraray, Dunollie Castle, and Glencoe all etched into the stone, along with many other points of interest.
If you want to extend your adventure and see more of the area, you can continue onto Gallanach.
All too aware that I would be leaving early the next morning to catch the ferry from Oban to Crignure on the Isle of Mull, I called it an early day. Heading back to the hotel to have dinner by 7:00 PM. This allowed me to ensure my bags were adequately packed and ready to grab and go for another day of adventure in the morning.
Quick Overview:
Overall, Oban was incredible. There was more than enough in the nearby area to keep me entertained for the two days there. All of these were easily accessible by foot, and had I gone with a car, most also had parking. The town itself and the subsequent hotel were equally accessible. The only reason I did not give Oban 5 out of 4 stars in walkability is because it is just such a hilly area; I imagine it could be difficult for those who struggle with stairs, seeing as bus stops are limited and the hills are crushing. Also, there were points where I had to walk along streets and forego any pathways.
I recommend that anyone with time to visit Oban do so, especially in the summer, with or without a car.
Continue our journey with us to the Isle of Mull…
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