Scotland Without a Car: Part 2 - Isle of Mull

As part of a continuation of the Scotland Without a Car Series, this article will detail how to get to and from Oban to the Isle of Mull. You will find suggestions relating to what to do, how to relax, and information on how to see the island's wildlife. 

Join me in exploring Mull. See puffins, spend time on the open water, and see more of the island here. 

If you have not previously read Part 1, you can find the article here.

For an overview of the trip, please go here. 

Day 3: A Day on the Hebridean Sea

Itinerary: 

7:00 AM - Breakfast and check-out of hotel

8:05 AM - Ferry from Oban to Craignure on the Isle of Mull

9:35 AM - Arrive in Craignure

11:45 AM - Set sail from Ulva Port with Turus Mara to explore the Treshnish Isles and Staffa

6:00 PM - Return from tour and head back to Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa

7:30 PM - Dinner at Oran na Mara and finish the day watching the waves come in

Overview:

Goodbye, Oban - Hello, Mull: Leaving Oban was bittersweet. I really loved my time there and would miss the friendly staff at the Oban Bay Hotel. But my journey was just beginning, and the Isle of Mull awaited me. 

In this case, getting to Mull was probably easier without the car. There are no bridges to the island. Instead, it can only be accessed by private boats, ferries and other modes of water transport. This is a relatively quick trip by boat, only taking around an hour, depending on weather and scheduling. The leading ferry company on the West Coast is Caledonian MacBrayne, affectionately called CalMac. 

The ferry port in Oban is directly beside the train station where I came in, so finding the boats was no problem. I couldn’t miss them if I tried, as they are large. They have to be for the number of cars that must be transported to the island. As a foot passenger, you will have to ticket scanned and then be directed to take a seat in the gallery, or you can enjoy the sea air from the deck. Many vessels in their fleet have cafes where you can order food and coffee to fuel your energy for your upcoming adventure, whatever it may be. However, not every boat has food offerings, so I came prepared with snacks.

Whether you are on foot or travelling with your vehicle, be sure to book tickets in advance and be at the terminal on time. The last call for foot passengers is 10 minutes before sailing times and 20 minutes before sailing times for vehicle passengers. 

From one ferry port to another: Upon arriving at Craignure Ferry Port, I had some time before catching the shuttle to my next event and grabbed a coffee from one of the shops just across the road. By the time I finished a cherry scone and a cappuccino from the cafe across from the port, I was ready to take on my day at sea with Turus Mara.

Thankfully, Turus Mara is prepared for the odd request from a foot passenger now and again for transport. Their boat tours use Ulva Ferry Port, a good 20 miles from where the ferry from Oban had dropped me off. Their shuttle service has limited spaces and times, so if you need assistance getting to the dock, be sure to let their team know in advance!

A day with Turus Mara: Arriving at the quaint ferry port of Ulva, the air is slightly cooler with a hint of salt and sea. There’s not much here—a small dock allowed just a few boats to rest. Make sure you utilise the facilities before getting onto one of the Turus Mara vessels, especially if you have opted for the day-long cruise like I did. 

Gaelic for ‘Journey by Sea’, Turus Mara is a family-run boat tour operation that has been running since 1973. From its origins in small craft boats to the upgraded larger boats used today, you have more options depending on the time of year and availability. We opted to make the most of the trip and chose a full-day excursion, departing from the Ulva ferry port at 11:40 AM and were scheduled to return near 6:00 PM. Taking to the water, the day was set to explore the Isle of Staffa and the Treshnish Isles beyond.

Taking to the seas, you can sit inside an enclosed area, the front (the bow) or back (the stern) and above deck behind the captains' station. Wanting to take in as much of the voyage as possible, I opted to stand behind the captain's station, holding onto the rails enclosing the other passengers and myself in, feeling the rise and fall of the waves, getting the sea mist stuck in my eyelashes. 

Along the 40-minute journey to Staffa, the captain pointed out wildlife, keystones, the landscape, and other noticeable features we skittered past, ensuring the passengers stayed informed and offering some relevance to the journey. Arriving to Staffa itself was something out of a fairytale. An island made of hexagonal stone structures opened into Fingals’ Cave, which looked as if it had been carved by ancient gods. We were able to not only see this stunning mystery of geology from afar, but the captain (very skillfully) pulled the boat to dock just long enough to let the passengers off to explore the ½ mile-long island. Giving us an hour to explore, I highly recommend bringing along some snacks to enjoy after walking into the heart of the cave and exploring the high cliffs of the island. Just make sure to hold onto your trash until you find a proper bin. You can see from the heights of these cliffs for miles across the water, from island to island. You don’t want to do anything on these lands that could impact the beauty of the land and water around you. 

After spending some time exploring Staffa, the boat returned to take us to our next location, the Treshnish Isles. Specifically to Lunga, the largest of the Treshnish Isles and home to thousands of feathered friends. Here, you will find puffins burrowing in the rocky cliff faces of the islands. They are very curious little birds and comfortable enough in their burrows that you can get strikingly close. But be sure not to get distracted by the abundance of puffins at the beginning of the walk on this island, although Turus Mara plans for this and gives 2 hours on the island before returning back to shore. If you continue up the path, you will come to Harp Rock, a piece of the island separated by a deep cut in the rock, where hundreds or thousands of seabirds nest. It is an incredible sight. At first, you can’t tell it’s even birds, and instead, it looks like a black and white speckled rock, but actually, it is birds. 

By the time the vessel came to collect and bring its passengers back to the Mull coast, we were so full of new knowledge and excitement for the wildlife we had seen that I couldn’t help but crave more. I spent the entire trip back searching the royal blue water for any sign of other sea life. I was rewarded twice with grey seals, plus plenty of birds on their way to the sanctuary island we had just left.

And one more ferry port: The ride back to the Craignure Ferry Port was quieter than the ride there, full of memories to filter through and longing to rehash the day over a warm meal. The fulfilment in my heart after the adventure reignited my passion for the sea, reminding me of my time living by the sea. Everyone was not tired because of exhaustion but instead quiet in peace. 

I arrived back at the ferry port to my chariot waiting. Not sure how far away the hotel was (it was close, come to find out), I requested a shuttle pick up to get me from the port to the Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa. Should you need it, the hotel has a special shuttle ready for requests. Make sure to call in advance and book times you might need to bring you to your island retreat. 

Now, this is luxury livin’: After a quick ride in the shuttle back to the hotel, I could finally check into my room, well, suite. Stepping out onto a stunning deck with ocean views and my own personal hot tub! Any hint of tiredness left my body as I saw the incredible set-up before me. Complimentary treats, a bottle of wine and steam barely escaping under the closed lid of the hot tub. I wish I had a video of my face walking in because my jaw was dropped. It was just what I needed after a day on the Hebridean Seas. 

After freshening up, I went upstairs to have dinner before a relaxing evening walk. I could go right up to the ocean and let the promise of relaxation soothe me. With brilliant orange and pink colours painting the sky, I returned to my room. More accurately, I returned to my bottle of wine and personal hot tub! In the Scottish summer, the sun doesn’t tend to set until nearly 11 PM, so I could enjoy the sunset views for as long as I wanted and reflect on the incredible last couple of days. 

Day 4: The Lighthouse 

Itinerary:

8:30 AM - Breakfast and morning admin

11:00 AM - Bus to Tobermory

12:05 PM - Arrive in Tobermory

12:15 PM - Hike to Tobermory Lighthouse & War Memorial

2:00 PM - Lunch @ The Gallery

3:50 PM - Bus back to Isle of Mull Hotel and Spa

5:35 PM - Arrive back at Hotel

8:00 PM - Dinner at Oran na Mara

9:00 PM - Nighttime walk & Hot Tub Soak

Overview:

The Bus to Tobermory: After a fulfilling breakfast with views over Craignure Bay and completing some much-needed work admin on my personal suite patio, it was time to get back to exploring. Luckily for me and all the other car-less travellers on the island, a bus system runs around the island. With varying timetables, most buses run from 6 AM to 7 or 8 PM, depending on the bus routes and delays.

The bus I was to take to Tobermory (West Coast Motors route 95) was scheduled at 11:09 AM, and with it being directly outside the hotel, there was no need to rush the morning. Day passes from West Coast Motors are £18, and you can travel on the ticket as many buses as you need from 24 hours after activation.  I’m happy to report that the scheduled bus was exactly on time and arrived in Tobermory at 11:53 AM, earlier than projected! According to their website, taking this journey saved 5904g of CO2 compared to driving - the same as keeping a lightbulb on for 1,664 hours.

The small burgh of Tobermory was originally built as a fishing port in the late 18th century and has since become the island's picturesque capital. Known for its brightly coloured shops facing the bay, it has become a hub for wildlife watchers, adventurers and other types of coastal tourists. With a collection of bespoke shops and restaurants, you can also find yourself at Tobermory Distillery's doorstep.

To the Lighthouse: I already did my tourist due diligence on a whisky tour in Oban, so I opted to walk to the Tobermory Lighthouse instead. Walking from town, you will pass the Mull Museum. I highly suggest popping in to take a look, as it is a free exhibition and gives some context to what life was like on the island years ago. The museum works on donations and volunteers, so it is nice to do your part and offer a token of gratitude to the staff. Nearby there is also The Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust headquarters. This charity works directly with local communities to ensure whales, dolphins and porpoises are protected and valued throughout Scotland’s west coast. You can download their app to track Scotlands marine mammals. I watched this app often during my time in Mull and was able to track the two Killer Whales that call the Scottish West Coast home.

There are plenty of places to stop along the way, but once you get onto the edge of the main street, you will see arrows pointing to the lighthouse. The trail also goes right past a steep staircase leading to the war memorial, which honours the soldiers from Tobermory who lost their lives in World War I. There are some benches here, and depending on the time of year and the tree density, you can see across the bay. It is a lovely spot for reflection. 

The walk to the lighthouse takes 30-45 minutes and gradually increases in altitude. The entire path offers glimpses of the sea beyond, creating an interesting trail reminiscent of the American North West. You can also take a separate path to see the lighthouse from above. I walked directly to see the lighthouse itself, however. The 19-metre, white-painted tower was established in 1857, manually looked after by keepers living just a stone's throw away until 1960, when the lighthouse was automated. Rubha Nan Gall, meaning ‘strangers point’ in Gaelic, now mainly relies on solar power to keep the lighthouse active. The keepers' cottage, now privately owned, has been renovated and is rented out as private catering accommodation and is not open to the public at this time. 

Lunch in a Church: After a calming walk back through town, I had time to sit down for lunch. I found myself at The Gallery, a restored church turned art gallery and restaurant. They have a selection of art produced by local artists along with some other items, such as images of puffins and other characters you can find around Mull. On the weekends, local musicians play live music.

It was a good place for me to sit down, get some warm grub, and catch up on some documentation about the past few days. With the large stained glass window above me and a giant cappuccino to fuel me, writing was suddenly much easier in this space. Afterwards, I took another nice walk along the shore, taking in the surroundings of the coast before hoping back onto the bus and returning towards Craignure Ferry Port. Lucky for me, if you ask politely, sometimes the bus drivers will let you hop off early, meaning I didn’t have to walk the extra ten minutes back from the stop after a long day of hiking.

Quick Overview:

Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by the ease with which I was able to get around the island without a car. From my experience on the other islands, such as the Isle of Skye, I thought a car would be crucial to doing anything. It would have been ideal to spend more time here on Mull, seeing as the added buses and shuttles take a large chunk of time out of the day. I would say that most of the side of the island I was on was not very walkable per se, though there is a sidewalk or footpath to the Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa from the ferry port. If you are confident walking along streets, you can walk, but I would suggest taking the bus where you can in regard to saving time and safety. There is so much left to do on Mull that I would love to do, but I was not able to fit into this trip, so I am looking forward to returning again. 

Continue our journey with us to Loch Fyne in Inveraray…