Scotland Without a Car: Part 3 - Inveraray

This article completes the Scotland Without a Car Series. It details how to get to and from the Isle of Mull to Inveraray, where my week-long journey ends for the time being before returning to Edinburgh. It also includes activities in the area, how to get from place to place, and other suggestions for enjoying your next Inveraray escape. 

Join me in exploring Inveraray. See castles, spend time behind bars at Inveraray Jail, and take a hike with stunning views across Loch Fyne. 

If you have not previously read Part 1, you can find the article here and Part 2 here. 

For an overview of the trip, please go here.

Day 5: A Royal Day in Inveraray

Itinerary:

8:45 AM: Ferry from Craignure in Mull to Oban

9:35 AM: Arrive Back in Oban

11:00 AM: Bus from Oban to 

12:30 PM: Arrive in Inveraray

1:00 PM: Afternoon Tea 

2:30 PM: Tour of Inveraray Castle

6:00 PM: Dinner

Overview:

Boats and Buses: It was bittersweet leaving Mull, knowing there was so much more to explore. But the adventure continued, and the feeling was fleeting, as I had very much been looking forward to the next stop of my trip. To get to the next stop, the first step of the journey was to retrace my steps, meaning I had to get the ferry back to Oban. Well, walking to the ferry port is technically the first step. From Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa, it is only a 10-minute walk, so it wasn’t much of a journey, but taking the fairy trail along the bay rather than the pavement by the road made it more interesting. 

I joined my friends on the CalMac Ferry for the second time this week. By booking tickets ahead of time, I was ensured a spot at the time of booking, and the accompanying QR code made it easy to show the ticket person and head directly aboard. This vessel seemed larger than before, with an enclosed observation deck, padded booth seating, a cafe, and a designated pet-friendly space.  Again, the journey was quick, less than a full hour from port to port, so I arrived in Oban with plenty of time to catch my CityLink bus, which didn't leave until 11:00 AM.

It's a good thing I was early, too. One thing about public transport is that delays, cancellations, and diversions are inevitable. Considering my luck with the weather and transport links, I was waiting for the inevitable. Sadly, an accident on the roadways caused a road closure that allowed for a proper investigation. No buses would be getting in or out anytime soon.

However, a group of us headed towards Glasgow got lucky. A bus driver who had made it through before the barricade found a group of passengers standing around a police officer, trying to figure out what to do. He graciously rounded up those of us on the way that way with prebought tickets (another good reason to book tickets in advance) onto the only available bus headed towards Glasgow that day, and we were off. The alternative route took some extra time but was nothing too drastic. Before I knew it, I was waving goodbye to Oban and hello to Inveraray. 

An Afternoon for Royalty: The short delay in timings meant I had to push back my scheduled afternoon tea by 30 minutes, but I was just grateful to get to my next location. I didn’t mind, and thankfully, the staff at Loch Fyne Hotel & Spa was more than understanding and even helped me check into my room and set my bags down before cosying up in cushioned seats by the window. I was lucky enough to have a coworker join me for this part of my trip, and we were treated like royalty! Even the room was adorned with chocolate and wine, welcoming me in - the suite I stayed in was the Craws Nest.

After a lavish tea, we went down the road to continue the decadence by spending the day at Inveraray Castle. The building's beautiful, deep grey soapstone is shockingly beautiful against the lush green and vibrant colours of the gardens surrounding the rear of the castle. Four rounded towers, one on each corner of the building, make for the image of a perfect, fairytale castle of dreams. The surrounding grounds are full of life, where you can see grazing cattle and squirrels scampering through thick woodlands with stunning views of the decorative Dun na Cuaiche.

Inside, the castle is adorned with ornate decor, from an outstanding organisation of weapons to delicate paintings and ornamental ceilings. The rooms that are visible to the public show a unique glimpse into the world of the Duke of Argyll and the historical Clan Campbell. Only open during the winter season, the castle is described by the Duke as ‘first and foremost, a family home’ and the family still is in residence, closing public access during the winter holiday season. Looking around at the layers of history, every room has an air of elegance, from the bedrooms to dining spaces, and even the simple kitchen boasts an impressive area. 

The original castle building dates back to 1533. To put this in perspective, this is the same year Mary I, otherwise known as ‘Bloody Mary’, was proclaimed the rightful Queen of England. The foundation of the current building began in 1746, and it is reflective of restoration due to fire incidents in 1877.

Easy Evenings: Remember how I mentioned my luck with the weather? Luck ran out. The original plan after leaving the castle was to make the walk to Dun na Cuaiche, about a 3-mile round trip hike, but the now heavy rain meant two things. One, the views would be abysmal at best and two, the mud could make the steep incline slippery and dangerous. It could wait till the next day. 

This is a type of weather the Scottish call ‘Dreich’, meaning ‘dreary and bleak’. It’s nothing a hearty dinner and a glass of wine can’t fix. We enjoyed a calm dinner and then headed to the room nicknamed ‘The War Room’. Named so after the only meeting place outside of London to be used for a wartime cabinet office meeting, the room has been used by important historical figures such as H.M. King George VI, Winston Churchill, General Eisenhower, and others. 

On this day, however, our room use was much less serious. Glasses of wine in hand, we enjoyed a relaxing game of Scrabble. With views across Loch Fyne and plush seats, there are plenty of games to choose from for rainy days, and the bar is only a few paces away.

Day 6: Day spent in Inveraray Jail…

Itinerary:

9:00 AM: Breakfast & Meetings

11:00 AM: Inveraray Bell Tower

11:30 AM: Inveraray Jail

1:30 PM: Walk to Dun Na Cuaiche

4:14 PM: Return to Hotel

6:30 PM: Dinner

Overview:

The Inveraray Bell Tower: The next day, I was rewarded with taking it easy with a beautiful, although finicky, day. For the most part, the weather stayed nice and sunny, with a few scattered showers, but nothing compared to the day before. So, after answering some emails and saying farewell to my coworker, I took the opportunity to go into town to explore the quaint shops of Inverarary before continuing with my schedule.

The small town's main street boasts an eclectic shopping destination for those looking for a special souvenir, bottle of whisky, or gift. Nestled just behind the main street sits the Inveraray Bell Tower. Called ‘The Dukes Tower’, it was constructed as a tribute to the fallen members of Clan Campbell in World War I. 

The Bell Tower is open from Monday - Friday, and for £7, visitors can see an exhibition where you can learn more about the tower's history and its bells. Following the spiral staircase up 176 steps will reward you with stunning panoramic views of Inveraray. This was not on my original itinerary, but as it was only a 10-minute walk from the hotel and directly across from my next excursion for the day, The Inveraray Jail, there was no reason to miss it.

A Day in Jail: Until that day, I never thought I would step foot in jail. However, this was of my own volition; no handcuffs were needed, and I even paid to be there. No longer an active Jail, Inveraray Jail is now a museum dedicated to educating visitors about the history of crime and punishment in Scotland. The jail recently opened an escape room, which I unfortunately didn’t plan into my itinerary, but I am excited to try it out next time. 

Inveraray Jail first opened its cells in 1820, opening the ‘new’ prison in 1848. This new prison was considered to be incredibly advanced for its time. The prison boasted 12 individual cells, an outdoor exercise area, a water closet on each floor, and the luxury of heating. 

I was pleasantly surprised with my experience here. Complete with knowledgeable employees dressed in historical attire, the jail features clay models, interactive exhibits, and a free audio tour with every ticket purchase (tickets are £15.50). The front of the building is deceptive, not doing justice to the sheer size of the jail. I spent almost two hours here, reading and listening to both stories of past inmates as well as the history of Scottish law practice of the day. 

One particularly interesting part of the jail experience is being able to sit in the courtroom and hear a mock trial, including the verdict. In cinematic form, you move from the courtroom to the two prisons, separate buildings hidden behind the facade of the building. This experience has an outside portion, though most is enclosed behind 3-foot-thick cell walls and ceilings, so in worse weather, you might need to scurry quickly from one section to the next, but it was only drizzling when I was there. 

It was an incredible experience and is a well-done gem of a museum tucked away in Inveraray. 

The Climb: Leaving the Inveraray Jail, I picked up a premade sandwich and a chocolate bar at the shop across the street, so I had some provisions for my impending hike. Now that the weather was less severe and, for the most part, sunny, I decided it was time to make the climb to Dun na Cuaiche. Once again, I headed towards the fairytale Inveraray Castle.

Instead of turning towards the castle and ticketing box, turn left and head across the stone bridge leading to the forest walk. The point of interest is visible from most of the town, creating a beautiful sight wedged on the side of the mountain face rather than its peak so that it is silhouetted by the sky. Interestingly, this structure was not designed for purpose but for pure aesthetic value. 

At the start of the walk, there are two main paths, one indicated by a red arrow and the other a blue. The red arrow directs a more gradual walk to Sweetie Seat. Sweetie Seat Walk is a great alternative for those who still want to see the beautiful view over Loch Fyne but might not have the energy or time to make the nearly two-hour round-trip hike to Dun Na Cuaiche. I have done this walk in the past, and it was low difficulty but still had rewarding views.

The walk to Dun Na Cuaiche isn’t the hardest hike I’ve ever done, and it is only a 3-mile loop, but there are sections where the incline is fierce, so it definitely got my heart rate up. I sat 15 minutes in and realised I would need some fuel (fuel = chocolate). The views throughout the walk are beautiful, over the Scottish countryside and through the lush green trees. The wind picked up the closer I got to the top, but the weather held for the most part. Arriving at the reddish tower, I sat overlooking Loch Fyne for miles and ate my sandwich. The town and castle below looked antique, with the stark white buildings lining Front Street. 

Taking in the views I reflected on the past week. I thought about all the memories I made this week, the history I had learned, and the sights I had seen. It was the perfect place for reflection, and when I turned to return down the trail, I was already looking forward to my next adventure.

Quick Overview:

Even with the rain and delay, I enjoyed my time at Inveraray just the same. The town itself is very walkable, with clean pavement and plenty to keep a foot passenger busy. Stacked with historical relevance, including the Castle, Jail and Bell Tower, you will surely have an educational experience. Should Scottish history not be what you’re after, there are still plenty of walks and outdoor activities around to keep you busy, whether you are interested in reaching higher peaks, wild swimming, or long walks along the loch. However, there is plenty to do surrounding Inveraray that was not easily accessible to me without access to a car or just would have taken too much time to get to for the two days I was there. The only way in and out of the small town without using a car is by bus, as there are no local train stations.

Day 7: That’s a Wrap

Itinerary:

11:00 AM: Bus from Inveraray to Glasgow

12:55 AM: Change Bus from Glasgow to Edinburgh

2:45 PM: Arrive back in Edinburgh

Overview: 

It’s always bittersweet coming home from any trip, but my feet were tired by this time, and my heart was full. It was time to return to Edinburgh, back to the real world. Well, as real as the romantic capital city of Scotland is. 

The bus was a smooth ride from start to finish, hoping on in the Inveraray town centre and off at Buchanan Bus Station in Glasgow, and immediately back on another heading for Edinburgh Bus Station. Having the City Links App downloaded on my phone made for an easy trip, and as the bus from Inveraray arrived slightly early, I could grab the next bus back to Edinburgh rather than wait for the following one 30 minutes later. 

For a full overview of my experience travelling Scotland’s west coast without a car, please see the corresponding article.